Friday, April 23, 2010

Fabulous Florence

Florence is like an open-air museum that overtly flaunts its magnificent splendour. In the late 15th & early 16th centuries Brunelleschi and Michelangelo competed fiercely for financial approval of the Medici family, responsible for the Italian Renaissance and patrons of Botticelli, Raphael, Machiavelli, Cellini, Donatello, and of course, Leonardo da Vinci, to name a few. The Medici's enjoyed a fearsome reputation as authoritarian aristocracy yet cultivated and facilitated the flourish of creativity and the discovery of genius. Greatness surrounds you as you walk the same streets as the giants of architecture, art and culture, who helped create the magical beauty of fabulous Florence.

I am staying at an unassuming hotel on Via Toselli, conveniently located 20 minutes from the city centre. Hailing the #17 bus on Via Ponte Alle Mosse directly in front of the Bar Caffetteria Ritrovo, where I buy my bus tickets at $1.20 valid for 70 minutes, and it takes me directly to the city. All bus tickets can be purchased at any Tabaccheria (tobacco) shops or cafe's; bus drivers do not sell tickets, so be prepared.

Begin your adventure at the Piazza dell Duomo with the enormous Cathedral Duomo, Baptistery and Campanile. The Gothic style Duomo was built in the 13th century, made completely of marble with two magnificent doors, one created by Michelangelo and the other by Brunelleschi. No matter how many times you walk past this extraordinary building you will be awestruck.

Brunelleschi devised and built the monumental Cupola (dome) that set the benchmark for all other domes around the world. If you are feeling energetic you can climb the 465 steps (there are no lifts) to the top of the tower for panoramic views of Florence. Worth the effort.

Florence has 470 museums all worth visiting but obviously not possible unless you plan on staying for a while. Do the classics. Go directly to the Uffizi Galleries - 6 Loggiato degli Uffizi, just off the Piazza dell Signoria where you can also obtain advance tickets for other galleries. It might be a bit more costly but worth sailing past the long hot queues into any of the awe inspiring museums.

The Uffizi Galleries are to Florence what the Louvre is to Paris or the Met to New York. The Uffizi is the principal museum of Florence. Covering two floors a block long, this 16th century building houses paintings, tapestries, sculptures and archaeological relics commissioned and collected by generations of the Medici family. The museum's undisputed highlights include Botticelli's Birth of Venus & Spring, and Leonardo's Adoration of the Magi. As well as works from Giotto, Cimabue, Perugino, Uccello, Fra Angelico, Raphael, Veronese, Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Drur, Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt and the list goes on.

Not far from the Uffizi is the world famous Ponte Vecchio, an extraordinary bridge spanning the Arno river, full of beautiful jewellery shops. Once you have had your fill with the glorious view from the bridge or maxed out your credit card, cross the Ponte Vecchio until you reach the Palazzo Pitti at the Piazza del Pitti. Another great gallery, and an absolute must see. Give yourself plenty of time, as the Pitti Palazzo has many museums and State Apartments with the much-heralded exhibition of I Medici e le Scienze, an astonishing exhibition displaying magnificent treasures such as Galileo's telescope and the book that put him under house arrest until his death. Also worth a look is the exhibition of costumes throughout the ages that covers a complete wing of the Palazzo.

A wealthy Florentine banker, Luca Pitti built the Pitti Palazzo in the 15th century and it is massive. The Medici's moved in from the Palazzo Vecchio into the Pitti Palazzo and made it their private residence. There is some speculation as to whether the Medici's confiscated the magnificent Palazzo from the Pitti family. Nonetheless, it remained the Pitti Palazzo in name and houses many of the Medici's private belongings and jewels which are displayed here as well as great works from artists such as Raphael, Caravaggio, Veronese, Titian, Fra Fillippo Lippo, Reni and Bartolommeo. Then top it off with a leisurely stroll around the beautiful gardens and vast grounds of the Giardino di boboli and Giardino Bardini.

Pizza and gelataria bars are everywhere in Florence. After you've been to the Pitti Palazzo you will come across a very small pizza, cake and biscotti bar. Stop immediately and taste the best pizza for $2.50 a slice, catering more for the locals than the tourists. Try the eggplant and artichoke pizza. Yummy!! Tip: if you see locals frequenting cafes, bars and restaurants then you know it has to be good.

The Piazza Della Signoria is an impressive piazza, an open-air museum surrounded by cafes, bars and restaurants as well as myriad of shops and stalls. Remarkable living statues are everywhere, artists who stand dead still until you throw a coin in the tin whereupon they move into a new position. You can also have your portrait sketched by aspiring artists.

The Piazza Signoria is home to the enormous 15th century Neptune Fountain where a brass plaque in the pavement marks the spot the mad monk Savonarola was burnt at the stake in 1498. The Piazza houses great sculptures of Roman and Greek themes, where you can also gaze upon the fake David. The original is in the Galleria dell Accademia - 60 Via Ricasoli near San Marco Square.

Michelangelo took two years from 1502-1504 to sculpt his masterpiece. His studio is now a museum, the Museo del Bargello, opposite the Duomo. Michelangelo gained permission from the Grand Duke Cosimo de Medici to use an inferior slab of marble sitting idle in the Piazza to transform the marble into David. With many obstacles to overcome, Michelangelo produced a work of art that surpasses none, forcing his contemporaries and detractors to concede defeat. His David is still regarded as the most beautiful sculpture in the world and a marvel to behold. You cannot take photos of the real David. I witnessed a few people have their cameras and mobile phones confiscated for sneaking in a photo. Safer to buy a postcard at the shop on your way out.

Everywhere you look in Florence there are students, young and old with sketchpads or artists attempting to imitate the masters.

The Exterior of the Opera di Santa Maris del Fiore Novella is unassuming however the interior of this church is covered with beautiful frescoes and the architecture is of colossal proportions.

Italy is hot in June, July & August so you would be forgiven for wearing singlets, shorts and thongs, however you will not be allowed entry into any of the cathedrals or churches if you expose too much skin; security guards will block your entry. If you are lucky benevolent nuns may loan you a scarf. The Italians consider it utterly disrespectful to be semi clothes in the house of god.

The Opera Medicea Laurenziana San Lorenzo church, built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century is one of the many Medici chapels. Dontello adorns the church with numerous sculptures, however the highlight is Michelangelo's Dawn & Dusk - Night & Day decorating the tombs of Lorenzo and Guiliano Medici. The enormous crypt is where most of the Medici family are buried. Thankfully the Medici's did not understand the concept 'less is more'. Albeit, it is inevitable that modernity creeps in, but has not overwhelmed Florence nor detracted from its ancient beauty in any way.

There are many day trips to be had outside Florence. You can join a tour group to Pisa or explore the vineyards. I recommend catching the #7 bus to Fiesole in the Florentine Hills to visit the ancient Roman ruins, museum and amphitheatre, still in use today. Fiesole is said to be the oldest part of Florence where the Romans set up base camp. End your wonderful holiday watching the sun go down over Florence from a cafe' ideally situated on the cliff face.

Florence is absolutely fabulous!



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