Thursday, September 16, 2010

HENLEY BEACH.


 HENLEY BEACH.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
 
Henley Beach jetty.

 
Henley Beach jetty.
 
Victory podium.

Oddly numbered swimming podium about to be removed as the SLSC undergoes much needed renovations. Thankfully, they are keeping this wonderful, eccentric piece of Henley history.

Words and photography by Allison O'Donoghue



I live here. It's a lovely seaside village in the Western suburbs of Adelaide in South Australia. I love living here. Especially in the winter months, it is like my own private beach, which has a slow, sleepy feel about it. Although it's Spring, its still very chilly and hardly anyone other than locals are hanging around. Henley Square is the main focal point. It's 2pm in the afternoon and its all but deserted. I love that. But I also love the packed summers. I love the sound of the sirens when a shark is spotted, and the rush from the water like a scene out of Jaws, and the chopper flies overhead to warn us of the big fella lurking in the shallows awaiting a tasty morsel, although it probably thinks you're a seal. Thankfully, there has not been any shark attack in years at Henley, in no small part to the tireless efforts of the choppers, seaplanes and vigilant seafarers. There are no shark nets in SA as the beaches are too long, so you do take your life into your own hands when going for a dip. Not very reassuring, but once you get your head around the fact that you're in their home and they are unwittingly sharing it with us, you learn to respect the beasts and keep at a safe distance.

Henley Guide Hall - 1931

I love the jetty that juts out into the ocean, with its wooden planks and spindly legs. At night the jetty is full of families fishing for their supper, lovers taking a romantic stroll, kids licking ice-cream and teenagers illegally jumping off the end. What's a jetty for is not to jump from great heights? I remember it used to be mandatory when I was young, until the fun police put a stop to it all. And I understand why, too many broken necks, and drownings, so it is a safety issue.

Underneath Henley jetty.

Henley at dusk.



Old Henley Square.

Henley Square is the hub of my suburb, surrounded by cafe's of all nationalities: Greek, Thai, fancy cafes and franchise like Cibo's. With only one grand old pub on the site, recently refurbished and lookin' good. This pub comes alive every night of the week, even in winter - people spill out onto the street and sometimes a  obligatory fight breaks out. I can hear the commotion from my house, but the police sirens soon wail and its over pretty quickly. And of course no beach would be complete without a fish and chip take away and the ravenous appetite of seagulls swooping down to nick a chip. I often wonder why the council doesn't make better use of the Square, there could be a market held every weekend. Maybe I'll suggest it to them.

Development plans.

This is what is should look like when its done.


The new Henley Square is almost complete. It looks great, although I wonder about the massive expanse of concrete in the middle of the Square, as it doesn't offer any shade at all. During the heat of the day, most people will gravitate toward the sheltered areas which seem to cater mainly to the cafes and restaurants. Its not finished yet, so I wont pass judgement until it is finally done. But its not far off. Maybe they'll install water sprinklers and fountains for the kids to run through, may be not.

New shaded areas at Henley Square

New shaded area at Henley Square.

Large concrete expanse at Henley Square.

The Surf Life Saving Club built in the 70's, is an ugly looking building but an institution since the 1920's. Apparently it was a grand building with spectacular verandah's where you could watch without getting wet. Those days have gone. We're now stuck with an unappealing building that could do with a facelift maybe rendering it and painting it white and blue with High Tea served daily. I'm grateful its there if things go wrong and they have from time to time - those beautiful surf life savers save the day. There was once a grand swimming pool at Henley - the old timers tell me it resembled a Roman bath house. What a shame its not here today.

Old SLSC - gone.

Ugly SLSC being demolished as we speak. Phew - its got to go. I'll update the new and improved SLSC. It looks great and has a fantastic bar over looking the beach. Great spot for a wedding reception or Christmas party. Or New Years Eve party.

The new Henley Surf Life Saving Club

Henley SLSC.
Modernity has come to Henley, albeit a little late. Pity I didn't buy in the 80's and 90's when it was cheap as chips and plenty of old mansions to renovate. It saddens me to watch the heritage of Henley being knocked down to build those horrible, characterless boxes. Some people have bought an old beach mansion and lovingly restored it, but they have to bid higher than the developers who have no interest in retaining Henley heritage. Now a huge complex has been built opposite the Square, which has shops and more cafe's, and is much more pleasing to the eye than the 70s horror that was there before. All I know is the dust that collects in my house is a pain and so are the cracks in my walls from the constant digging. It's has been finished for a while and it looks great. I'll update a pic next time I go for a walk.

Under the Henley jetty.
.


Cactus in Bloom

During the summer months, families, friends and locals come out in droves, they lay out picnic blankets, put up shade umbrellas, and dust off the boogie boards. There's no surf at Henley, which I have to say is a great relief. I lived at Bondi Beach for 10 years, and then Bronte for eight, and those beaches can get very wild and scary. Many an unsuspecting swimmer have broken their necks by getting dumped by massive unrelenting waves. When I was younger I lived across the road from the beach on Campbell Pde, Bondi. I had a late night, the next morning I decided to go for a swim to wake up. That was my first mistake. I used to be a fearless swimmer. I happily got past the huge waves and was doing some laps but then I looked back, I was literally miles away, the Bondi Pavillion looked tiny. I had been taken out by a rip. I waved and waved, but no one came. Until a surfer saw me, threw me on his surfboard and took me back closer to the shore. I thanked him. He didn't look too happy. He missed some waves because he had to rescue me. But he'd dumped me right back in the rip and I was taken out again, but even further this time. I wasn't waving then, I was drowning. He came back, literally threw me on his board cursing me all the way, but this time he took me back to the sand and dumped me unceremoniously. I don't know what was more shocking - his reaction or nearly drowning! Maybe a bit of both. After that terrifying event, I never go out beyond waist level. And I always wonder - where was Bondi Rescue that day?

Windsurfers at Henley Beach
Thankfully, Henley beach is somewhat more sedate, mainly due to the fact that there is nothing to break the waves. The long expanse of water create ripples that creep in at a slow and steady pace. Some days its as flat as a tac, and you can see a fin coming for miles. It's lovely.

Henley at dusk.



Grange jetty

I love the walk from Henley jetty to Grange jetty, the next beach side suburb. I walk it regularly in summer. This winter has been too wet and windy to brave the elements although I love that too. The rain pelting down on my face, giving me a free exfoliation, getting soaked as I pick up my Thai take away or Greek wrap. It's all apart of living on the beach. I love the waves washing over the rock walls when the tide is high, and the wind roaring. It will be a worry for those who have spent a fortune on beach front properties in the future when the sea level rises, with only a road between them and the elements. But let's not worry about that now. I love the street art that some call graffiti - it's art to me. I love the mosaic rock-art dotted here and there along the esplanade.

Rock Art 

Haigh Mansions on esplanade

I love having early breakfasts; eggs florentine, yummy. It's only the locals who frequent the cafe's in the early mornings. I love watching the dog walkers and the runners, the thai chi group, and mums power walking their prams at break neck speeds. The bike riders, the strollers, the elderly couples getting their daily exercise. Some of the faces are becoming familiar, we now acknowledge each other with a nod or a wave. I love the way people park their cars on the esplanade to watch the water from a safe vantage point, viewing beach life from a distance, while quietly contemplating their lives. The ocean is a great leveler, it just keeps on flowing regardless of what's going on in your life, it rolls in day after day almost beaconing you to go with the flow of life and allow any problem you have to wash over you, urging you to let go. When I'm feeling shitty, I take a walk on the esplanade or do the jetty walk and my problems seem to vanish. I love that.

Ramsgate Hotel


I love the jet skis coz they scare the sharks away. I love the windsurfers. I love the flashy boats that swing in as if to say - 'Look at me! I'm rich! I'm lucky and your not' - buffed bodies posing in the sunlight, and flaunting their wealth. Why not?

I love the inventiveness of some people who park their card tables and deck chairs on the sand bar, in the ocean, drinking, eating, playing cards, generally cooling down in a comfortable fashion. So clever. And you can only do that on Adelaide beaches, the surf is so flat and the waves so gentle the table is not going to budge.


I love the Greek festival, the Blessing of the Waters ceremony held every year to ask the gods for a good fishing season. Last year it was 40 degrees, the sweltering heat kept most punters away but it didn't stop the Greeks who were out in force. For the first time a girl was allowed to participate. She didn't win, but that is a huge leap forward for the Greek community. The winner goes onto to be a hero for a year, and blessed by a priest. His family beam with pride, as it also signals a great year ahead for them by proxy, basking in the glory. I love Greek music, Greek food, their lifestyle and especially Estia the famous Greek restaurant on the Square, boasting the best Greek food outside of Greece. And it is. I've been to Greece and Estia -  and it's on a par for sure.

I love that I can still find seashells on the beach, as well as smooth brown and white pebbles that wash up on shore. Unheard of at Bondi or Bronte. And no jellyfish, only the occassional dead Box Jellyfish that washes up along the shoreline from time to time. We don't get many stingers at Henley beach. I've never seen one nor have I been stung. But I did enthusiastically dive in one day only scare the living daylights out of a baby stingray that swam away at lightening speed. It scared me after I thought about it later!

Sunset over Henley Beach

I love that I can stroll across the road for a swim, cool off, get a dose of Vitamin A and D then head home again. I can do that all day long in the long hot summers, it's so easy. And I love the sunrises and sunsets. Breathtakingly beautifull.

Sunrise from my deck

The Henley Square is now finished and I have to say it looks fantastic. The design is unique and new development can accommodate more people, with plenty of places to sit, rest, set up a picnic or frolic in the Square. The centre of the Square has a water feature that kids will love as they walk through it. Albeit, if they run they could fall over, I suppose we'll have to wait and see if it becomes a liability. Not to mention the inebriated! However, its a good idea, and a way to cool your feet. There are interesting sitting areas, which are made up of either plastic or hard resin, either way it will heat up quickly in summer and be freezing to sit on in winter, so the off season months are possibly the best to access these seats.
 
New Henley Square with water feature.
 
There is a new shower feature that looks like a sculpture, that I noticed is already rusting, maybe that's the idea. Have to wait and see how that develops. There are new changes room with toilet facilities, which must be a huge relief for the cafes. There was nothing before, so the new addition of an area where mothers can take their children without having to buy a drink, is a very good idea. And thankfully the cafes and restaurants don't have to tolerate people traipsing through half undressed to rush to the toilet.There is also a strange canopy like structure with a cemented floor. What this will be used for is a mystery as it faces the beach, so it is possibly not a functioning stage area for festivals, but will make a great area for families or people with disabilities, who can rock up in their wheelchairs and get a front row seat watching the waves and breathing in the sea air.   
 
New shower structure.
 
All the original cafes and restaurants have had an external make over, with bar like areas installed so customers can watch the passing parade of the weird, wonderful and beautiful. The pathway that leads to the jetty has been transformed - it now has a wave like seating section, designed in such a way that you can either lie down, lounge or sit, which is a really good idea. All in all it is a successful redevelopment. 
Wave design seating section.
Change room and toilets.
 
I was hoping the council would have the foresight to maintain some of the historical features of Henley Beach and they have. Thankfully the unusually numbered winners podium has been moved and saved for posterity. It now sits along side the SLSC next to the car park, and can be used as a another seating area or a pit stop.
 
The winners podium.

More undercover areas.

Large sun shade embedded in the sand. 
 
I love my beachside haven. I love Henley beach.

Wave of inspiration. New seating.

The Esplanade

Henley Jetty which has survived the redevelopment.




Henley Jetty


Stella's on Henley Square


Henley Library

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