Passions of Paradise - Outer Reef Tour.
Up early for the Passion of Paradise tour, decked out in our swimming gear we head to the Horizon Club for a buffet breakfast. A choice of delectable food, scrambled or boiled eggs, bacon or sausages, platters of fresh tropical fruit or stewed which go nicely with the various flavours of yoghurt and muesli plus a range of juices. And again mini cakes and pastries for the sweet-tooth. After filling ourselves to the brim we head to the Reef Fleet Terminal, conveniently located on Marlin Marina opposite the Shangri-La.
At the Passions counter we're greeted by a German lass named Sandra who also happens to be psychic. "Good morning Allison," she chortles happily. How does she know my name? I'm not wearing a name badge. I'm number 49 out of 79 and I'm not late. I ask her, but she just smiles at me knowingly. Very bizarre.
All 11 crew members are lined up along the pier to meet and greet the passengers as we all slowly board the Passions Catamaran. We are given a health form to fill out and indicate whether we are diving or snorkeling. Mari and I elect to snorkel. The Cat is full of American students on the last big day out before heading to Sydney. They are excited, loud and bombastically take over the Cat but its all good, they add to our excitement. While everyone completes the paperwork, morning tea is served. Mari and I look at each other, knowing full well we couldn't fit another morsel in our mouths, while the students chow down as if they haven't eaten in months. They probably haven't. I remember my student days, deciding whether to eat or buy books, always a difficult choice.
Mari and I sit outside to bask in the sun, as we watch the ominous clouds form overhead. After a head count the Cat heads off out into open water. We listen to a safety lecture, then the divers are summoned inside for a fast track lecture on how to dive. Then its the snorkelers turn. Mari confesses she is not a great swimmer and would like a staff member to accompany her when she goes out the reef. Luckily, the crew are trained for this and have guided tours of the reef for those unsure of their abilities. We are given flippers, snorkels and wetsuits, struggle into our gear and wait. The weather gets wilder as we head further out to sea.
We are asked not to drink any alcohol if we plan on diving or snorkeling, if anyone is has too much they will not be allowed into the water. A collective boo rings out from the American students but they get the logic and accept the request. The waves get bigger and bigger as land disappears from sight. The Cat sways violently from side to side and dips wildly in the gaps between the waves. Its scary and exhilarating at the same time.
We head back inside for fear of being thrown off and find a booth, plonk ourselves down and claim the spot as our own. We're seated next the to galley, the smells of lunch start drifting up causing those not yet found their sea legs to lurch and make a beeline for the loos. Seasickness tablets are available from the crew as people line up for their dose, the toilets seem to be permenantly occupied.
It takes 2 hours to reach the first reef. The outer reef mooring is exclusive to Passions, which means no crowds, its all ours. The first dive group jump in. Then its the snorkelers turn. I don the flippers and confidently jump off the back of the Cat. I'm immediately pushed back onto the stairs by the force of the huge waves. I try again. I get a little further out but the waves are so violent I am too consumed with keeping the water out, steadily funneling down my snorkel, to even look down at the magnificent reef below me. I head back to the boat. And so do a few others. Mari looks at me with eyes so wide, it tells the story. I must have looked a sight. She doesn't even attempt to go out without a guide, as she knows her limits. I, however, over estimate mine as I consider myself a good swimmer and have been snorkeling on and off all my life. Not today!
Attempt 2. I grabbed the water camera as Pasqual, our guide takes us out to the reef, as we hold onto a life ring. He is strong enough to pull all four of us out to the reef. With us is a 9 year old girl, the only child onboard and her mother. He reminds us to keep flipping and look down. I shoot wildly as we finally reach the reef. It is a spectacular sight, coulourful, untouched coral as bountiful marine life swim beneath us. I managed to take nine shots before Pasqual heads back to the Cat. We swim over a patch of brown, lifeless coral, a sad sight. I wonder if that is a result of modernity or the tanker that ran aground. I wish we had stayed out longer but the brave little girl, was too cold and needed warming up.
Once back onboard I feel a slow burning on my left foot. I ignore it as I warm up under my beach towel, but the constant burning gets my attention. I see a red raw rash developing on my ankle as it begins to swell. I call Sandra over, who is having a 'dry' day, she examines the rash and happily declares, "You've been sung by a Blue Bottle." She is so cheery, I can't help but smile along with her. I've been stung before so I know what to expect. Luckily Mari has some Lignocaine creme' in her bag, I lather it on and it works instantaneously. People start piling back on the Cat, exhausted from battling the constant waves, eyes as big as melons. All bravado vanished. Some have been slammed up against the boat, tend to their cut and bruises. The divers seem to have had abetter time of it, underneath it is less choppy. The crew are ever vigilant and the next time I see Sandra she is dripping wet. Its all hands on deck as crew members rescue those who haven't the strength to clammer back onboard. Its all very exciting.
Another head count, then lunch is served. It is a simple selection of salads and cold cuts, bread and spag bol. No hot drinks are served as the sea is too rough. The youngin's start downing beers, yet again they are warned not to drink too much as we are about to head out for the second reef - Michaelmas Cay. They let out a collective moan but again abide by the rules. These American kids are so polite, I admire them for their restraint.
It appears ours is the stable table, as an interesting group of people from all over the world gravitate to us. We swap travel stories and tend to our wounds.
A crew member sits at the middle table to conduct a lecture on the species of fish and coral we've just seen.
Lunch is over. We head of for the next leg of our journey - Michaelmas Cay a world renowned bird sanctuary. The Cat is unable to get too close to the reef due to shallow water so we pile onto a glass bottom boat and head for the island. Batfish frolic over the divers who swim to the reef. As my foot/ankle is still burning from the sting, I elect to watch from the shore. However Mari dons the gear and gets final instructions from Pasqual as she bravely heads out backwards to the reef. Within 5 minutes she's back on the shore. But thats another story. We stay at Michaelmas Cay for a good 40 minutes as grey clouds hover overhead, a storm is brewing.
The crew are big on head counts, as we clamber on board and collapse in our spots, freezing and exhausted. All I want is a cup of tea, but its not to be. The bar is open, and suddenly the lethargy has lifted, the Americans are all in for a hoedown as we make our way back to the marina. The ocean is still wild and unpredictable but that doesn't stop them sitting out the front, getting hammered by the massive waves, hanging on for dear life and loving every minute of it. I just hoped no one fell overboard, as that would delay our return and a hot shower beckons. Luckily that didn't happen. The crew are so use to this they watch them like hawks. At least they will have a awesome memory to take to Sydney.
At last, land is in sight. We dock as the crew line up to bid us farewell. The crew are to be commended for their excellent service, vigilance and sense of fun. An exceptional day, full of excitement had by all, albeit for my money I'd prefer calmer waters and a sunny day, but we can't control the weather.
We head straight for the Horizon Club for canapes. No way are we missing out on delicious food, besides we're starving hungry. I down a tea, a coffee, a red wine and then finally a vodka tonic as fellow guests who have already done this trip come over for the lowdown on our experience. No one bade an eyelid that we are not suitably dressed for the occasion. They've all been there. They know how we feel.
After a hot shower we try out 'its all in THA Fish' on the pier. We start with a 4 taster plate then I have Seafood Paella which has more texture than it does flavour, while Mari devours a 800g streamed Mud Crab, served with an assortment of condiments, wedges and salad. It takes her so long to eat, we are the last people in the restaurant. The staff impatiently watch as she takes her last mouth full and immediately whisk her plate away.
A wonderful 4 days in Tropical far North Queensland. In fact it was not long enough. I'll be back.
Passions of Paradise.
Shop 2, Shields St
Mantra Esplanade.
PO Box 2145, Cairns.
Qld. 4870
P: 07 4041 1600
F: 07 4051 9505
www.passions.com.au
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