Gaudi's Gaudy Masterpiece.

Words and photography by Allison O'Donoghue

In 1926, Antoni Gaudi stepped back to admire his masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia only to be struck by a car, killing him instantly. He was 73 years old.

At that stage only the crypt beneath the apse and the facade of the nativity had been completed. Gaudi did leave instructions, drawings, sculptures and models but these were burnt during the Spanish Civil war when anarchists sacked the building as a protest to the Fascist government who was a staunch supporter of Gaudi's work. What a shame they didn't have the foresight to recognise that Gaudi was creating art for the ages. Albeit, Gaudi was a deeply religious man who rarely took a day off, such was his devotion to God and some semblance of his instructions and models remain enough for New Zealand born, Australian based architect Mark Burry to continue to fulfill Gaudi's vision.

The Sagrada Familia is a major tourist attraction in the Spanish capital of Barcelona who plays host to at least 3 million tourists a year. I was one of them in 2008. Surrounded by scaffolding and obscured by huge blocks of something resembling marble, I was initially a tad disappointed. What with the queues, dust and endless sounds of the grinder, the experience was not pleasant and the heat didn't help, but this initial feeling was quashed when I walked in the front door, a dedication to Jesus. The excitement I felt by just being there was overwhelming. I waited patiently in the long queue and took the lift to the top, slowly walked down the ancient precariously worn steps, sharing the experience with a woman from London who's husband refused to go with her. Looking out the tiny portholes to a spectacular panoramic view of Barcelona city, was well worth the dust and bother. Like Italy, Spain doesn't seem to worry about OH&S in regards to numbers - come one, come all - more the merrier. Not so great for those who walk up the stairs to squeeze past those walking down. Breath in.

At the time I was in Spain controversy was raging in regard to a tunnel to be drilled underneath the Sagarda Familia. A high speed train tunnel to link Paris, Barcelona and Madrid is a good idea however this poses a huge problem for the foundations of the World Heritage listed building. Chief architect Jordi Bonet launched a campaign to stop the tunnel, but the Spanish government would not be held ransom to this relic in the name of progress regardless of how much revenue the Sagrada Familia generates. But  this is nothing new, arguments have raged around and about the Sagrada Familia since its inception. The jury is still out on Gaudi's masterpiece and for years the debate has centered around its cultural relevance and artistic merits boarding on kitsch. And to be honest it is kitschy. It is gaudy and loud. But so what. There is nothing like it in the world although the Milano Duomo is a front runner for a kitschy crown and could give the Sagrada Familia a run for its money.

Mark Burry has worked on Gaudi's masterpiece since 1989. He went to Barcelona in 1979 as a student from Cambridge University to prepare a dissertation and fell under Gaudi's spell. Ever since he has traveled back and forth for over 30 years. Working with his architect wife Jane from their home in West Melbourne the couple use aeronautical software to decode Gaudi's models, and have slowly unravelled the geometric shapes and design within the models, made easier with the help of modern technology to bring this massive project to completion. He, like Gaudi, has come under fire for his interpretation of the model and weathered the storm of criticism over the years. Recently the architectural union FAD gathered a petition signed by the Spanish elite known as the Red Alert manifesto to stop progress on the Sagrada Familia by "mediocre technicians". It must rankle Spanish architects that an iconic structure as huge and important as this should be built by an outsider and his absence must add weight to their claims. However his does not deter Burry who, thanks to amazing advances in digital technology can now communicate from his home in Melbourne to his peers in Barcelona and send across his latest plans, designs and instructions, traveling two or three times a year to inspect the work.

Generations of masons have worked on the cathedral dating back to Gaudi's time from grandfathers to sons of sons, such is their dedication they continue working on the project even when the money has dried up. They consider it an honor to work on this holy site.

Recently, Pope Benedict consecrated the Sagrada Familia and like Gaudi trouble seems to follow him where ever he goes. Protesters gathered outside holding placards demanding the Pope resign his post over ongoing child abuse claims by catholic priests. Homosexuals staged a pash-in, kissing for the the Pope to recognise same-sex relationships and female priests lobbied to be acknowledged and included in the Papal click. All this fell on deaf ears as thousands gathered inside and out of the Sagrada Familia to celebrate the long over due consecration. Although the exterior is still uncompleted, over 7000 people filled the finally completed interior to hear the Pope's mass. Although Burry has said he is not religious  he respects Gaudi's holiness and devotion to God, unlike Gaudi his devotion didn't inspire him to make his bed under the apse.

Completing this ambitious 19th century project with the use of 21st century technology, super computers and aeronautical software have inspired innovative construction techniques now adapted and adopted by engineers, jewelers, new media and architectural design firms. Ironic then - modernity helped complete Gaudi's vision but also killed him. Antonio Gaudi has been nominated for sainthood several times, although until a miracle is attributed to him directly then it is unlikely to inspire the Pope to move on this nomination. Its not enough to devote and dedicate your life to God, Gaudi has to cure a cancer patient or make a cripple walk again before the Catholic Church will consider him for sainthood. Albeit, you could say it is a miracle Gaudi's Sagrada Familia was completed at all.

Completion of the Sagrada Familia may take place in 2026 - 100 years later. Gaudi knew he would never complete the cathedral in his lifetime. Of the 48 years he worked on the project he took less than a week off. Now that's dedication. Sadder still, when Gaudi was hit by the car, they didn't recognise him at first as he dressed like a pauper. It took a week before they new who he was and by then it was too late.

 

www.sagradafamilia.com

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