SENSATIONAL SIENA
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| II Palio |
Words and Photos by Allison O’Donoghue
Just 1½ hr train ride from Florence is the
beautiful ancient city of Siena, founded by the Etruscans in 400-900 BC and is
one of the most striking of the Tuscan cities.
The emblem embossed all over Siena is that
of a she-wolf suckling two children, Romulus and Remus. According to legend,
Senius the son of Remus founded Siena; legend has it that Romulus killed his
brother Remus in a jealous rage and went on to create Rome. Albeit, the truth
is Caesar Augustus invaded the Etruscan village and founded the town in AD 70,
paperwork depicting this date can be found in the state library. Siena
prospered by becoming a lending state and then exporting wool, now it is a
stunning tourist attraction built on steep hills and surrounded by tall poplar
trees with a residential population of 50,000.
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| II Campo |
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| Piazza Del Campo |
The undeniable highlight of Siena is the 13th
century Piazza Del Campo a brick lined fine-looking square and the site where
chariot races were once held. Today, instead of chariots the square plays host
to the annual horse race II Palio,
akin to the Melbourne cup, where thousands of people find the best vantage
point to witness this frenetic event while the winning jockey is lifted to rock
star status until the next race to defend his crown. Get there at least 3 days
early to watch the race trials, an event in itself and pick a contrada, colour of one of the 17 city
districts to barrack for. The race is a chaotic, frantic event and over in a
split second but festivities last from the 2nd of July until the 16th
of August.
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| Duomo |
Magnificent buildings like the Municipal
Palazzo, the Cathedral and Torre del Mangia bell tower looms over the graceful
Palazzo Pubblico built in various stages and envelops the II Campo. The oval
square or Field as it is known, was designed for civic events and ringed with
cafés, restaurants, souvenir shops, churches and bars. This is the place to
come to watch the passing parade of tourists and locals or dine out on a
delicious traditional Italian meal. Inside the palazzo is the Museo Civic, open
daily.
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| II Campo |
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| Fonte Gaia |
The Fonte Gaia is a glamorous rectangular
marble fountain built for the horses, now tourists are welcome to refill their
water bottles, except during the II Palio
race where horses still have first preference. Take the stairs from II Campo
and cross V. di Citta’ to get to Siena’s hilltop Duomo. Street directions are
everywhere so it is virtually impossible to get lost.
It is amazing to watch cars traverse the
narrow, steep winding roads of Siena, albeit the cars are all small eco
friendly little machines that seem to defy gravity while parked on a definite
lean.
The 13th century saw a building
boom in Siena when the Santa Maria Cathedral, Opera del Duomo was completed and
like all Italian churches, a sight to behold. Massive, made of marble and opulently decorated with
frescoes and mosaic floors, an the engineering feat to marvel, an enormous
structure built in trying conditions; stifling hot summers and freezing cold
winters carrying marble up narrow roads and steep inclines via horse drawn
carriage. The mind boggles.
To the right of the Duomo is the Museo
dell’ Opera Della Metropolitana and houses the la Maesta’ de Duccio di
Buoninsegna and other famous works of art.
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| Duomo |
Unfortunately, there are not many shaded areas
in the cathedral square that surrounds the Duomo so be careful when sitting
along the wall opposite as you take in the enormity of the building, up on high
and out of sight are pigeons lined up to poop from a great height. I saw a few
tears as children had to ditch their gelatos and I had to wash down my shirt
helped by fellow Aussie travellers.
Speaking of gelatos, the best I have ever
tasted in my life, so much so I went back for seconds. Hang the weight; the
taste sensation is totally worth it.
As you take a leisurely stroll back to the
train station you will pass myriad of jewelry stores and designer shops and you
may happen upon markets selling the usual souvenir trinkets but if you’re lucky
you will find a gem or two at the many antique stalls to tempt you.
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| Romulus and Remus |
If you want to get lost take a local bus
ride around the city and check out the stunning ancient, old and modern
architecture built into the hillside.
Add sensational Siena to your itinerary,
only a day trip outside of Florence or a 3-hour train ride from Rome. It is such a beautiful little city.
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