PARIS - FRANCE

PARIS - FRANCE

1950's Parisian fashion

Words and Photography by Allison O'Donoghue

Post card images: Maurice Branger

Ah, beautiful Paris! I’ve been dreaming of visiting France all my life, to finally get here was beyond a thrill. I arrived in late May just before the mass evacuation of Parisians from the city. French natives tend to flee to their country estates, the Atlantic coast or head O/S in late June early July for their annual holidays to get away from the tourists. Albeit, this year, due to the GFC the French couldn't afford to escape the city so are staying put. Special beaches along the Seine have been built to accommodate the locals who have decided to spend their holidays at home. Plus there is a heat wave with similar temps we Australians are very familiar with - over 40* degrees. So drink plenty of water and go to the air-conditioned museums to escape the heat and there are plenty to choose from. Here are some ideas.   

1920's Paris

Paris is broken up into Arrondissements, which are like suburbs. I stayed in the once bohemian and artistic area of Montmartre. It’s not anymore. It is a sea of black, full of immigrants from African nations. That is not a racist statement but a statement of fact. And it was a shock. It’s a joke that in Australia we fret and freak out about a few boats arriving from time to time when in Europe they are overrun with immigrants seeking a better life. When the EU opened up it released a flood of immigrants, which has become unsustainable for Paris. And then there is the gypsy population, which I thought prior to my visit to Europe, was a romantic notion but I was in for a rude shock. They are everywhere begging on the streets with their children in toe learning the tricks of the pickpocket trade. It was heartbreaking and awful to watch. And I read just recently that several gypsy camps in Paris have been dismantled and the gypsy’s moved on, but to where? After all, generations of gypsy’s are now natives of France and have made France their home. 

Art Deco - Metro 

After being driven around the block a number of times, the cab driver finally dropped us off at Hotel Iliade XVIII. Suffice to say I never took another cab again, public transport in Paris is fast and efficient – cabs are not necessary unless you’ve got to get somewhere quickly, so I recommend you stay away from them. If they think your a tourist and know you can’t speak fluent French, you will be taken for a ride. Expect to be ripped off, par of the course unfortunately. Porte de Clignancourt is our metro line and was very easy to get anywhere from here. 

Once you get your bearings, Paris is an easy city to get around and I recommend you do a lot of walking if you can, as you see and experience things you’d miss otherwise.  It doesn’t get dark until after 10 pm so you’ve got plenty of daylight to explore Paris. My son was reluctant to go out at night, he thought we were going to be rolled and he was probably right. I mean, we were obvious tourists, so no matter how confident we strode down the street we just had to open our mouths and the game was up.

Montmartre'

Our first meal was at a lovely little unassuming restaurant on rue Letort at Chez Paula’s and it was simply divine. So great and fulfilling, we went back on our last night in Paris, it turned out to be the best meal we had and at very reasonable prices. For entrée’ we sampled garlic and parsley escargot, then pepper steak with whole peppercorns, salad and real French fries with the first glass of wine free. French house wines are excellent, unlike Australian house wines, which are generally cheap and nasty to taste. Thankfully the French have enormous pride in their food and wine, so only serve the best. We watched in awe as Parisians ate course after course and then had a cheese platter at the end. We could barely get through the entrée and main. And no need to order dessert as Paris is full of patisseries’ open til late. I recommend to avoid the long queues get your pastries mid afternoon before the Parisians knock off. Every counter is full to the brim with delightful delicacies so of course we ate til our hearts content and our bellies full - guilt free, as we knew we’d be walking it off the next day. We tasted the obligatory baguette everyday as they are quick, easy, delicious and made with the most incomparable mouth watering bread you’ll ever taste.

Gare Du Nord

Inside Gare Du Nord

Gare Du Nord

The IIe de la Cite’ and the IIe’ St-Louis are the centre of the city and the world famous Seine flowing east to west divides Paris into two sections - the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) to the south, comprising the Latin Quarter, St-Germain-des-pres, Les Invalides, Eiffel Tower and place d’Italie’. The Right Bank (Rive Droite) to the north comprises the Louvre, Montorgeuil, Marais, place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysees and Place Charles de Gaulle-Etoile. There are 20 arrondissements or districts that spiral around the Louvre. Gare du Nord is the major train station where you can grab a train to rural and country areas of France or catch the Euro Star for fast albeit expensive trip to London.

The Seine

View of the Seine from the Louvre'

Contrary to popular belief, I found the French to be very helpful and obliging. They are proud people and this is often mistaken for arrogance but I found them very nice. My French is basic at best and if they couldn’t speak English then we’d work together with lots of animated hand movements to converse, often with hilarious results.  I only spent a week in Paris, which is not nearly enough time to truly explore this magnificent city but it was a taste and I’ll definitely be going back again.

Tourist Hot Spots.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Cathedrale’ De Notre Dame De Paris – Is one of the worlds most famous and beautiful examples of medieval architecture. Built in the 12^th century completed in the 14^th century, it is hard to fathom that this magnificent building fell into disrepair after the Revolution and was used to house livestock. It wasn’t until Victor Hugo began a campaign to restore the cathedral in 1831 that it regained its former glory and is arguably an excellent example of Gothic engineering and architecture in the world. The scary gargoyles that perch on top of the towers survey the masses below, are truly terrifying and were designed to ward off evil. The enormous stained glass windows at the northern and southern ends of the cathedral are marvellous and dominate the ends of the transept. You don’t have to be religious to visit this amazing building but I guarantee you’ll be moved. Notre Dame is a must.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Notre Dame Cathedral

Pantheon – The Crypt occupies the highest point on the Left Bank and houses the tombs of Victor Hugo, Louis Braille, Jean Jacques Rousseau, Jean Jaures, Emile Zola and Voltaire. The highlight of the building is Foucault’s Pendulum that proved the rotation of the earth.

Le Pantheon

Jardin du Luxemborurg Palace

Luxembourg gardens

Jardin Du Luxembourg – Is an enormous park with formal gardens and once belonged to royalty until it was liberated during the Revolution for all Parisians to enjoy. It was once a residential Roman site with a medieval monastery and a 17^th century royal palace. It is vast and has beautiful parklands to stroll, have a picnic and is heavily policed due to pickpockets and daylight robberies. So many complaints were made over the years the French police installed a permanent police force within the grounds to monitor would be thieves.

Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower – Designed in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel as the tallest structure in Europe the Eiffel Tower was engineered as a modern monument to surpass the pyramids. It was not meant to be a permanent fixture and initially the Parisians hated it but it boasted panoramic views of Paris. After the Worlds Fair in 1889 a petition was delivered to the government to save the tower from demolition.  Now it is the most beloved structure in Paris. Be prepared to wait for up to 3 hrs to go up. The queues go on and on. It is only worth it if it is a clear day, no clouds and blue skies otherwise it is a waste of time. The day we went was cloudy and wet so a no go for us. Besides, my son refused to queue. Next trip.    

www.tour-eiffel.fr

Three hour queues for the Eiffel Tour

Arc De Triumphe'

Arc De Triumphe’ – Walk the length of the Champs-Elysees just to see how the rich live, lined with opulent stores with eye watering prices. Certainly out of my reach. Most importantly it is the astounding history this avenue holds that is breathtaking. I remember doco’s of Hitler parading down this beautiful avenue claiming France, making it infamous for all the wrong reasons. At the end is the Arc De Triumphe’ commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to honour his Grande’ Armee’. With the Tomb of the Unknown Solider constructed under the Arc on Remembrance Day 1920 and The Eternal Flame burning since 1921. The terrace at the top of the Arc boasts stunning vistas of the length of the Champs-Elysees’ and excellent photo opportunities with views of Paris on a clear day.

Le Concorde'

Le Concorde'

Le Concorde'

Place De La Concorde – At the other end of the Champs-Elysees is the world famous and infamous public square Place De La Concorde. Built between 1757 and 1777 as a monument to Louis X - the square became a meeting place during the Revolution and the site of public executions where a guillotine was erected to sever the heads of 1343 aristocrats.  After the Revolution the square as named La Concorde – Peace. At the centre is an enormous 13^th century The Obelisque' de Luxor given to Charles X by the Victory of Egypt committee. It depicts the deeds of Egyptian pharaoh Ramses II and is the oldest monument in Paris.

The Louvre Museum

Glass Pyramid entrance

The Louvre and Pyramid

Musee’ Du Louvre’ – No visit to Paris is complete without visiting this incredible former palace now museum. Give yourself a whole day to explore this extraordinary building and ponder its 30,000 items on display and famous artworks, like the da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, which is surprisingly small, covered in perplex glass and roped so no one can get too close with its own permanent guard.  But many more priceless artworks are on display as well as an Egyptian section and sculpture section. There is a café with outrageous prices and long queues but worth it – how often do you get to Paris?

Artists in residence

Artist in residence

Crown jewels

The Louvre treasure

We entered thru I.M Pei’s contentious glass Pyramid – the Parisians don’t like it and don't think it is in keeping with the Louvre’s architectural design, however its here to stay so eventually they’ll learn to love it just like the Eiffel Tower.  I was surprised we were allowed to take photos inside the museum – unlike the Vatican “No foto, No foto” so shoot to your hearts content.

www.louvre.fr

Apartments along the Seine

Musee’ D’Orsay – This marvellous museum houses the worlds best work from the Impressionists deemed too pedestrian for The Louvre, these rejects are now considered masterpieces. And its just as well the Louvre didn’t want them as they deserve they’re own gallery - they would only be swallowed up in the enormity of the Louvre. The Collection is housed in a former railway station and for the first time went on a world tour in 2011 while the D’Orsay underwent renovations. Masterpieces from Van Gogh, Manet, Cezanne, Monet and Renoir to name the rock stars of the period are on display here and lesser-known but no less important artists such as Morisot, Pissarro, Sisley and Seurat. The top floor offers the most comprehensive collections of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artworks in the world. The museum also displays sculpture, painting, photography and decorative arts. Not to be missed.

www.musee-orsay.fr

Cafe' life in Pairs

Le Musee’ Rodin – Situated in the heart of Paris near the Invalides' the Rodin Museum presents over 80 sculptures of the artists work. The 18^th century mansion was once Rodin's home is now the Hotel Biron and has beautiful gardens. The artwork of his lover Camille Claudel are also on display. The other Rodin Museum is in Meudon close to Paris at la villa des Brillants. Rodin lived and worked here and it houses his original models made of plaster in his studio.

www.musee-rodin.fr

Centre Pompidou – Another controversial structure that the Parisians have a love-hate relationship with since it opened in1977 and looks like something out of that fantastic futuristic film Blade Runner with the steel plumbing pipes running along the outside. This is where you will see Pop art, Cubist art and Fauvist and houses the largest collection of contemporary artworks in the world.

www.centrepompidou.fr

Pompidou Centre

Moulin Rouge’ – Immortalised in paintings by Toulouse-Lautrec, the rousing music by Offenbach and on screen by Baz Luhrmanns blockbuster with Nicole Kidman, Moulin Rouge has had a resurgence in popularity. It is safe to say that is has always been notorious but now in the 21^st century it is almost respectable to say you are a dancer or have been to Moulin Rouge. The dancing is still risqué but the entrance fee is the real shocker. Dinner and a show will set you back a pretty penny and the dancers now keep their nude coloured knickers on. 

Moulin Rouge'

Sex shops in Pigalle'

Situated along the Belle Epoque lined with cabarets, nightclubs Folies Bergere' and Folies Pigalle and dodgy sex shops, straddled between Pigalle and Blanche metro stops, you can get off one end and walk to the other. This strip is long and salacious, neon lit, loud and busy but great fun. We had a strange meal at a little cafe' my son couldn't eat his burger and my duck was tough, rather disappointing, esp when the waiter refused to talk to us. Really, that was our only bad experience in Paris where we were made to fell like second class citizens. It is safe to say that its best to remind the French that you are Australian, as they have a dreadful relationship with the Brits that seem to go back generations. Centuries old resentments that still hover around regardless of time. 

www.moulin-rouge.com

Flea Market - Puces.

Le Plateau - Clignancourt

France is also famous for its Markets - Puces.  Started out of necessity in the 1870’s as rag and bone men were pushed out of the city limits and into the suburbs due to public health safety concerns. Now these markets are French institutions and you can get a real bargain and bring back something authentically French.

Le Plateau – Clignancourt – clothes, shoes and accessories.

Antica – Furniture, plus objects from the 18^th - 19^th centuries.

Biron – Asian art, furniture from 18^th - 19^th centuries.

Cambo – Charming market a heart of Puces.

Dauphine – Various antiques, furniture, booksellers and art restorers.

L’Entrepot – Bulkier articles like large furniture pieces, staircases, mantelpieces etc.

Jules Valles – For enlightened browsers, furniture rented for film sets etc.

Malassis – Antiques and decorative arts from the 17^th century to contemporary items.

Le Passage – A wide range of clothing, books and curios.

Paul Bert – A trendy market full of curios, bric-a-brac, old books, decorative items clothing etc.

Rosiers – Chandelier, object de arts, curios from the 17^th century to vintage.

Serpette – A trendy market for art buffs, antiques or retro objects.

Vernaison – Ancient, scientific objects, toys and glassware.

Malik – New and trendy clothing.

www.parispuces.com

www.amaa.fr

www.st-ouen-tourisme.com

Best food in Montmartre'

Notre Dame Cathedral

Film-making in Paris

Hotel de Ville

Inside the Louvre'

Outside the Louvre'

Barge on the Seine

Louvre' Cafe'

Apartments along the Seine

Jardin du Luxembourg

Le Concorde'

Opera House

Punk venue in Marais